Epilogue: My Favorites in South Korea

In this type of travel blog, it is a tradition to make lists of favorite places/things/activities, and I think that a favorites list is the perfect way to wrap up this blog.

My favorite post in this blog is The Remains of the Original Ancient Baekje Capital ‘Hanseong’. I really enjoyed the lead up of the preceding posts – going to the third capital of Baekje Sabi (Buyeo), then going to the second capital Ungjin (Gongju), and then finally going to the original capital Hanseong which is … well, read it for yourself. I like that was in fact the order that I visited those three places in real life, one right after the other. I also like the photos I took at the remains of the Baekje fortress in ‘Hanseong’.

But that’s my favorite blog post, not my favorite place/experience in South Korea. So what were my favorites? Here is a Top 16 list, in descending order.

16. Pansori Performance at Jeonju’s Sori Festival: this was a unique opportunity to not only see a pansori performance in a traditional Korean hanok, but to have English subtitles with it! I really enjoyed experiencing this distinctly Korean theatrical art.
15. The Gwaneum-sa trail on Hallasan: the hike up the Seongpanak trail was disappointing due to all of the fog obscuring everything, but the superb views of the Gwaneum-sa trail sure made up for it!
14. Seokguram Grotto: even though I only got a limited view, and it was only for a few minutes, it left a deeper impression on me than most works of art I have seen – and I have seen a lot of works of art in my life.
13. Suncheon Bay: It’s so vast, and so colorful, and when you get close to it (or use powerful binoculars), you can get a peek at how much is living in there.
12. The Ruins of Mireuksa: I’m surprised at how much of an impression this old temple left on me – but then again, why wouldn’t an ancient Korean temple which has not been rebuilt since the Goryeo dynasty not leave an impression on me!
11. Manisan: it’s all about the stunning visuals. And the dedication of a certain stone-piling man.
10. Hahoe Folk Village: this is one of the most beautiful villages I have ever visited, with a wonderful combination of natural scenery and historic architecture.
9. The Jeju Women’s Film Festival: this was an even more special opportunity than the pansori performance in Jeonju – an English language (albeit incomplete) documentary about Jeju shamanism combined with a Q&A session with a Jeju shaman with Korean-English interpretation, on top of the other engaging films of the festival.
8. Namsan: Hermitage of the Seven Buddhas: Namsan is still unlike anywhere else I have ever visited, and visiting this hermitage was my favorite part of my Namsan experience.
7. Changgyeonggung Palace Part 1 and Part 2: objectively, I know that Changdeokgung Palace is more beautiful, but this is a list of my favorite places, not the most beautiful places, and Changgyeonggung is definitely my favorite palace in South Korea.
6. Jeju Stone Park: this park offers an in-depth introduction to the the geology and mythology of Jeju island, while also demonstrating the beauty of natural stone and traditional Jeju culture.
5. Andong Mask Dance Festival: this is possibly my happiest memory of South Korea.
4. Beopjusa & Songisan: okay, I’m cheating a little by putting these two together, but to be fair, I did visit them both on the same day. Beopjusa is one of the most fantastic temples in South Korea, and Songnisan was one of my favorite hikes
3. The Valley of the Waterfalls in Seoraksan: Seoraksan is the most beautiful national park in South Korea, and this was most stunningly beautiful part of the park which I visited.
2. The Caverns of Hwanseongul: this is one of the very few places I’ve been which are not only beautiful, but beautiful in such a special way that I feel it expanding my imagination into something that is permanently broader
1. Guinsa, the Sanctuary in Sobaeksan: there is no doubt that this was the best experience I had in South Korea

This is it! This is the last post on this blog.

I will continue to reply to comments and make corrections to prior posts.

If you want to read more blogs about travelling in South Korea, you can look at the blogroll.

Thank you everybody for reading.

THE END

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SK in SK: Discovery vs. Construction

What is South Korea? Is it simply the land and the waters within its borders? Is it the South Korean people?

In this list, I try to sort out which parts of ‘South Korea’ were discovered by the Koreans, and which ones were constructed by the Koreans. The ‘discovered’ places are mostly not made by humans (i.e. mountains), but the ‘Discovered & Constructed’ category also includes things which were made by humans, but were later discovered by South Koreans who didn’t entirely expect to find them (including the tomb of King Muryeong and the North Korean submarine).

Discovered
The Coast of Jungmun – Jusangjeollidea
The Coast of Seogwipo
Manjanggul, the Lava Tube Cave, and Gimyeong Maze Park
Hallasan Part 1: Ascent via the Seongpanak Trail
Hallasan Part 2: Descent via the Gwaneum-sa Trail
Sunrise at Castle Mountain Sunrise Peak
Suncheon Bay
Sobaeksan: The Peak
The Caves of Sobaeksan
Songnisan
Seoraksan National Park: Ulsan Bawi
Seoraksan National Park: Biryeong Waterfall
The Caverns of Hwanseongul
Seoraksan National Park: The Highest Peak Daecheongbong
Seoraksan National Park: Valley of the Waterfalls
Seoraksan National Park: The Scene at Biseondae
Jirisan National Park: Ascending Jungbong
Jirisan National Park: The Highest Peak Cheonhwangbong
Jirisan National Park: Seseok to Ssangyesa via Samsinbong
Jirisan National Park: Buril Waterfall
Bukhansan, the Roof of Seoul

Discovered, Some Construction by Humans
Jeju Olle Trail Route #1
Sanbangsan, the Cliff Sitting on Jeju’s Coast
The Famous Waterfalls of Seogwipo & Jungmun
Namsan: A Hike Through Ancient Silla
Udo Island: The Mini-Jeju
Woraksan
The Ancient Shrine on Taebaeksan
Jirisan National Park: To Seseok Shelter via Jeseokbong, Jangteomok Shelter, & Chotdaebong
The Remains of the Original Ancient Baekje Capital ‘Hanseong’
Walking Along the Han River
So-Muuido, My Last Full Day in South Korea
A Final Morning in South Korea: Inwangsan
A Final Afternoon in South Korea: Bukaksan, the Northern Guardian of Seoul

Discovered & Constructed
The Ancient Ruins of Mireuksa
Namsan: Hermitage of the Seven Buddhas
A Final Visit to Namsan and Farewell Gyeongju!
Geumjeong-seongsan: My First Fortress in South Korea
Jeju Museum of War History Peace at Gama Oreum
Guinsa, the Sanctuary in Sobaeksan
Temple by the Horse’s Ears, Temple of a Dedicated Stone-Piler
Chungju Lake
The North Korean Submarine at Jeongdongjin
The Taebaek Coal Museum
Busosanseong: Where the Baekje Kingdom Fell
The Tomb of King Muryeong in Gongju: the Most Important Ancient Tomb in South Korea
Gongsanseong: the Fortress in Gongju
Seoul’s Namsan and N Seoul Tower
The Third Tunnel in the DMZ
Bomun-sa, Seongmodo’s Temple of Having Sons
Guardian of the Han River: Ganghwa Island
Photos of a Mystery Place in Seoul
Huwon: The Secret Garden of Changdeokgung

Constructed
Beopjusa, Keeper of Ancient Buddhist Art
A Joseon-era Neighborhood in the City: Jeonju’s Hanok Maeul
Gyeonggijeon: The House of the Official Portrait of King Taejo
Genius Loci: Japanese Architect Meets Jeju Island
Nagan Castle Folk Village, Part 1: The Village which Charmed Me
Nagan Castle Folk Village, Part 2: An Open-Air Museum of Joseon-era Life
Jirisan National Park: Ssangyesa, Temple of the Twin Streams
Archaeological Ruins of Baekje in Buyeo
Gangneung: a Joseon Villa, a Gramophone Museum, and a Tofu Village
Beomeosa: My First Buddhist Temple in South Korea
Seokbulsa: The Really Cool Temple I Visited with Polish Tourists
Jeju Stone Park
Beauty and Tradition: Hahoe Folk Village
Daegu, the Medical Metropolis
Gamsan Village and the Museum of Sex & Health
Seongeup Folk Village
Haeinsa: House of the Triptaka Koreana
The ‘Folk Village’ and Hanoks of Gyeongju (plus economy and food)
Bukchon Hanok Village
The Joint Security Area at Panmunjeom Part 1: Where South Korea Talks with North Korea
Dorasan: The Train Station without Trains, and a Peek into North Korea
Namsangol: A Preserved Slice of Seoul’s Joseon Heritage
Downtown Incheon
Ehwa Womans University
Seolleung & Jeongneung, Two Royal Tombs of the Joseon Dynasty
Bongeun-sa
A Final Morning in South Korea: Seodaemun Prison

Highly Constructed
Gyeongju: The City of Ancient Royal Tombs
Yeomiji Botanical Garden in Jungmun
Spaland in the World’s Biggest Department Store
Gyeongju: Bulguksa and the Most Impressive Buddha Statue I Have Ever Seen
Jongmyo, the Ancestral Shrine of the Joseon Kings
Gyeongbokgung, the Largest Palace in Seoul
Changgyeonggung, the Quiet Grand Palace, Part 1
Changgyeonggung, the Quiet Grand Palace, Part 2
Deoksugung: A Palace at Night
Dongdaemun Plaza
The Seoul Lantern Festival at Cheongyecheon
Hwaseong Fortress: Haenggung, the Palace of King Jeongjo
Hwaseong Fortress: the High Point of the Wall at Paldalsan
Hwaseong Fortress: the West Gate, and the Really Big North Gate
Hwaseong Fortress: The North Floodgate and the Pretty Pavilion
Hwaseong Fortress: Archery and Beacons
Hwaseong Fortress: Completing the Circuit
Dragon Hill Spa, Part 1
Dragon Hill Spa, Part 2
Changdeokgung, the Last Palace I Visited in South Korea, Part 1
Changdeokgung, the Last Palace I Visited in South Korea, Part 2: Trees
Changdeokgung, the Last Palace I Visited in South Korea, Part 3: Indoor Spaces
Changdeokgung, the Last Palace I Visited in South Korea, Part 4: Nakseonjae
The Leeum Samsung Museum of Art: The Last Art Gallery I Visited in South Korea (Part 1)
The Leeum Samsung Museum of Art: The Last Art Gallery I Visited in South Korea (Part 2)

Intangibles: More About History/Culture/etc. than Physical Structures
Ancient Silla Heritage in Downtown Gyeongju
From Shimonoseki to Busan
April 3rd Peace Park in Jeju
A Documentary about Jeju Shamanism at the Jeju Women’s Film Festival
The Andong Mask Dance Festival
Hahoe Byeolsingut Talnori: A Traditional Masked Drama
Festivities, Museums, and Art in Gwangju
The May 18th National Cemetery in Gwangju
Pansori Performance at Jeonju’s Sori Festival
Cheongju: City of the Jikji
Goseong, Sokcho, and Gangwon Province’s North Korea Connection
Coastal Folk Heritage at Haesindang
Busan: Books, Beach, and Basement Cinema
The UN Cemetary in Busan
Learning about Baekje at the Buyeo National Museum
The Joint Security Area at Panmunjeom Part 2: The Axe Murder and Bridge of No Return
Heyri: The Art Village near the DMZ
Theatrical Performance in Seoul: Miso ‘Baebijang-jeon’
Walking Around Gyeogbokgung
Jogyesa: A Buddhist Temple in the Heart of Seoul
Jump: Another Super-Popular Nonverbal Show
The National Museum of Korea

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SK in SK: The Landscape of Feelings

This list is organized by my subjective feelings about various places in South Korea.

THE EXCITEMENT OF EXPLORING NEW PLACES
From Shimonoseki to Busan
Beomeosa: My First Buddhist Temple in South Korea
Genius Loci: Japanese Architect Meets Jeju Island
Namsan: A Hike Through Ancient Silla
Jeju Stone Park
The Caves of Sobaeksan
The Ancient Ruins of Mireuksa
The North Korean Submarine at Jeongdongjin
The Ancient Shrine on Taebaeksan
Archaeological Ruins of Baekje in Buyeo
The Tomb of King Muryeong in Gongju: the Most Important Ancient Tomb in South Korea
Jongmyo, the Ancestral Shrine of the Joseon Kings
Gyeongbokgung, the Largest Palace in Seoul
Deoksugung: A Palace at Night
Dorasan: The Train Station without Trains, and a Peek into North Korea
The Third Tunnel in the DMZ
The Remains of the Original Ancient Baekje Capital ‘Hanseong’
Guardian of the Han River: Ganghwa Island
Seolleung & Jeongneung, Two Royal Tombs of the Joseon Dynasty

THIS IS REALLY IRRITATING
Spaland in the World’s Biggest Department Store

THE THIRST FOR KNOWLEDGE
Ancient Silla Heritage in Downtown Gyeongju
Gamsan Village and the Museum of Sex & Health
Nagan Castle Folk Village, Part 2: An Open-Air Museum of Joseon-era Life
Gyeonggijeon: The House of the Official Portrait of King Taejo
Cheongju: City of the Jikji
Gangneung: a Joseon Villa, a Gramophone Museum, and a Tofu Village
The Taebaek Coal Museum
Learning about Baekje at the Buyeo National Museum
Dongdaemun Plaza
War Memorial & Museum of Korea, Part 1
War Memorial & Museum of Korea, Part 2
Ehwa Womans University
The National Museum of Korea
The Leeum Samsung Museum of Art: The Last Art Gallery I Visited in South Korea (Part 1)
The Leeum Samsung Museum of Art: The Last Art Gallery I Visited in South Korea (Part 2)

DID NOT LIVE UP TO MY EXPECTATIONS
Yeomiji Botanical Garden in Jungmun
Downtown Incheon

CONTENT WITH THE GOOD LIFE
My Life in Gwangju
Busan: Books, Beach, and Basement Cinema
My Life in Busan: Hostel, Restaurant, and Dentist
Insadong: The Artsy Alleys and the Delicious Buffet
Dragon Hill Spa, Part 1
Dragon Hill Spa, Part 2

CONTENT WITH THE WORLD
Seongeup Folk Village
Sunrise at Castle Mountain Sunrise Peak
Jeju Olle Trail Route #1
Haeinsa: House of the Triptaka Koreana
A Joseon-era Neighborhood in the City: Jeonju’s Hanok Maeul
Chungju Lake
Coastal Folk Heritage at Haesindang
Jirisan National Park: To Seseok Shelter via Jeseokbong, Jangteomok Shelter, & Chotdaebong
Bukchon Hanok Village
Itaewon: The Neighborhood Where All of the Foreigners in Seoul Are
Walking Along the Han River
Hwaseong Fortress: the High Point of the Wall at Paldalsan
Hwaseong Fortress: The North Floodgate and the Pretty Pavilion

MOURNING
Jeju Museum of War History Peace at Gama Oreum
April 3rd Peace Park in Jeju
The May 18th National Cemetery in Gwangju
Goseong, Sokcho, and Gangwon Province’s North Korea Connection
The UN Cemetary in Busan
Busosanseong: Where the Baekje Kingdom Fell
The Joint Security Area at Panmunjeom Part 2: The Axe Murder and Bridge of No Return
A Final Morning in South Korea: Seodaemun Prison

THE JOY OF BEING WITH OTHER PEOPLE
Seokbulsa: The Really Cool Temple I Visited with Polish Tourists
The ‘Folk Village’ and Hanoks of Gyeongju (plus economy and food)
Namsan: Hermitage of the Seven Buddhas
Manjanggul, the Lava Tube Cave, and Gimyeong Maze Park
The Andong Mask Dance Festival
Changgyeonggung, the Quiet Grand Palace, Part 1
Changgyeonggung, the Quiet Grand Palace, Part 2
Overnighting in a Hanok at Doo Guesthouse
The Joint Security Area at Panmunjeom Part 1: Where South Korea Talks with North Korea
Theatrical Performance in Seoul: Miso ‘Baebijang-jeon’
Jump: Another Super-Popular Nonverbal Show
A Final Afternoon in South Korea: The Meeting, the Guesthouse, the Airport

IT’S DEJA VU ALL OVER AGAIN!
Gyeongju: The City of Ancient Royal Tombs
A Final Visit to Namsan and Farewell Gyeongju!
The Coast of Jungmun – Jusangjeollidea
The Coast of Seogwipo
Udo Island: The Mini-Jeju
Jirisan National Park: Ssangyesa, Temple of the Twin Streams
The Treasures of King Muryeong at the Gongju National Museum
Gongsanseong: the Fortress in Gongju
Heyri: The Art Village near the DMZ
Namsangol: A Preserved Slice of Seoul’s Joseon Heritage
Hwaseong Fortress: Archery and Beacons
Hwaseong Fortress: Completing the Circuit
Bomun-sa, Seongmodo’s Temple of Having Sons
Bongeun-sa
Changdeokgung, the Last Palace I Visited in South Korea, Part 1
Changdeokgung, the Last Palace I Visited in South Korea, Part 2: Trees
Changdeokgung, the Last Palace I Visited in South Korea, Part 3: Indoor Spaces
Changdeokgung, the Last Palace I Visited in South Korea, Part 4: Nakseonjae

I’M LOST, AND I HOPE I’M OKAY WITH THAT
Geumjeong-seongsan: My First Fortress in South Korea
Daegu, the Medical Metropolis
Festivities, Museums, and Art in Gwangju
A Final Morning in South Korea: Inwangsan

DAMMIT, MY LEGS WANT TO STOP, LET’S GET THIS HIKE OVER WITH
Hallasan Part 1: Ascent via the Seongpanak Trail
Woraksan
Seoraksan National Park: The Highest Peak Daecheongbong
Jirisan National Park: Ascending Jungbong
Jirisan National Park: Seseok to Ssangyesa via Samsinbong
A Final Afternoon in South Korea: Bukaksan, the Northern Guardian of Seoul

SERENDIPITY
A Documentary about Jeju Shamanism at the Jeju Women’s Film Festival
Hahoe Byeolsingut Talnori: A Traditional Masked Drama
Pansori Performance at Jeonju’s Sori Festival
Guinsa, the Sanctuary in Sobaeksan
Jogyesa: A Buddhist Temple in the Heart of Seoul
The Seoul Lantern Festival at Cheongyecheon
Hwaseong Fortress: Haenggung, the Palace of King Jeongjo
Huwon: The Secret Garden of Changdeokgung

DAZZLED BY THE SUBLIME
Gyeongju: Bulguksa and the Most Impressive Buddha Statue I Have Ever Seen
The Famous Waterfalls of Seogwipo & Jungmun
Sanbangsan, the Cliff Sitting on Jeju’s Coast
Hallasan Part 2: Descent via the Gwaneum-sa Trail
Beauty and Tradition: Hahoe Folk Village
Nagan Castle Folk Village, Part 1: The Village which Charmed Me
Suncheon Bay
Temple by the Horse’s Ears, Temple of a Dedicated Stone-Piler
Sobaeksan: The Peak
Beopjusa, Keeper of Ancient Buddhist Art
Songnisan
Seoraksan National Park: Biryeong Waterfall
The Caverns of Hwanseongul
Seoraksan National Park: Ulsan Bawi
Seoraksan National Park: Valley of the Waterfalls
Seoraksan National Park: The Scene at Biseondae
Jirisan National Park: The Highest Peak Cheonhwangbong
Jirisan National Park: Buril Waterfall
Seoul’s Namsan and N Seoul Tower
Bukhansan, the Roof of Seoul
Hwaseong Fortress: the West Gate, and the Really Big North Gate
Photos of a Mystery Place in Seoul
So-Muuido, My Last Full Day in South Korea

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SK in SK: South Korea & Other Countries

South Korea has always been closely linked to its neighbors: China, Japan, Mongolia & other northern nomadic nations, and since the 20th century division of the Korean peninsula, South Korea has always been linked to North Korea. As South Korea increases its international trade, including the export of its pop culture, it is becoming more closely linked to many countries in the world.

This list organizes different posts by country. When a post pertains to both the United States and North Korea, I have listed it under ‘United States of America’ since anybody who wants to find all of the North Korea posts can click ‘North Korea’ under ‘Categories’ on the right.

China
The Famous Waterfalls of Seogwipo & Jungmun
Busosanseong: Where the Baekje Kingdom Fell
Pansori Performance at Jeonju’s Sori Festival
Changdeokgung, the Last Palace I Visited in South Korea, Part 4: Nakseonjae
Seongeup Folk Village
Jongmyo, the Ancestral Shrine of the Joseon Kings
Gyeongbokgung, the Largest Palace in Seoul
Theatrical Performance in Seoul: Miso ‘Baebijang-jeon’
Jump: Another Super-Popular Nonverbal Show

Japan
Learning about Baekje at the Buyeo National Museum
The Tomb of King Muryeong in Gongju: the Most Important Ancient Tomb in South Korea
The Treasures of King Muryeong at the Gongju National Museum
Nagan Castle Folk Village, Part 2: An Open-Air Museum of Joseon-era Life
From Shimonoseki to Busan
A Final Morning in South Korea: Seodaemun Prison
Downtown Incheon
Jeju Museum of War History Peace at Gama Oreum
Jogyesa: A Buddhist Temple in the Heart of Seoul
Genius Loci: Japanese Architect Meets Jeju Island

Europe
Sanbangsan, the Cliff Sitting on Jeju’s Coast
Cheongju: City of the Jikji
Deoksugung: A Palace at Night
Heyri: The Art Village near the DMZ
Yeomiji Botanical Garden in Jungmun
Dongdaemun Plaza
Busan: Books, Beach, and Basement Cinema
Manjanggul, the Lava Tube Cave, and Gimyeong Maze Park
Spaland in the World’s Biggest Department Store
Seokbulsa: The Really Cool Temple I Visited with Polish Tourists

United States of America
Guardian of the Han River: Ganghwa Island
Ehwa Womans University
April 3rd Peace Park in Jeju
Goseong, Sokcho, and Gangwon Province’s North Korea Connection
War Memorial & Museum of Korea, Part 1
War Memorial & Museum of Korea, Part 2
The Joint Security Area at Panmunjeom Part 1: Where South Korea Talks with North Korea
The Joint Security Area at Panmunjeom Part 2: The Axe Murder and Bridge of No Return
Gangneung: a Joseon Villa, a Gramophone Museum, and a Tofu Village
The May 18th National Cemetery in Gwangju
A Documentary about Jeju Shamanism at the Jeju Women’s Film Festival
https://sknsk.wordpress.com/2015/01/15/seoraksan-national-park-the-highest-peak-daecheongbong/

North Korea
A Final Afternoon in South Korea: Bukaksan, the Northern Guardian of Seoul
The Third Tunnel in the DMZ
The North Korean Submarine at Jeongdongjin
Dorasan: The Train Station without Trains, and a Peek into North Korea

Other Countries or Too Many Countries
The Remains of the Original Ancient Baekje Capital ‘Hanseong’
The UN Cemetary in Busan
The Taebaek Coal Museum
The ‘Folk Village’ and Hanoks of Gyeongju (plus economy and food)
Itaewon: The Neighborhood Where All of the Foreigners in Seoul Are
The National Museum of Korea
The Leeum Samsung Museum of Art: The Last Art Gallery I Visited in South Korea (Part 2)
The Andong Mask Dance Festival
Festivities, Museums, and Art in Gwangju
Guinsa, the Sanctuary in Sobaeksan

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SK in SK: Climates of South Korea

This is yet another way to organize different posts in this blog – by different climate regions.

One of the most basic facts of Korea’s climate is that it receives the Siberian wind, which makes winter much colder on the Korean peninsula than in many parts of the world within the same latitude (all of South Korea is south of Madrid, Spain). Heck, most of South Korea is colder than all-of-Japan-except-Hokkaido (Hokkaido is north of the entire Korean peninsula and also receives the Siberian wind). However, the East Korean Warm Current keeps the very southernmost parts of the Korean peninsula warmer than they otherwise would be, which is why South Korea has coral reefs within its maritime borders.

I could observe the impacts of the climates in many ways during my travel. For example, I saw plenty of Siberian chipmunks in both Hokkaido and South Korea, but in the rest of Japan, they are nowhere to be seen (fun fact: the Siberian chipmunk is the only species of chipmunk which is not native to North America).

Even in a country as compact as South Korea, there is quite a range climates, and these different climate zones increased the cultural diversity of different regions of South Korea.

The list starts with caverns which mostly ignore surface temperature (they are cool in summer and warm in winter), and then goes from warmer to colder climates.

The Caverns Which Are Somewhat Impervious to the Climate Outside
Manjanggul, the Lava Tube Cave, and Gimyeong Maze Park
The Caves of Sobaeksan
The Caverns of Hwanseongul

Subtropical (i.e. Jeju island)
Yeomiji Botanical Garden in Jungmun
The Famous Waterfalls of Seogwipo & Jungmun
Gamsan Village and the Museum of Sex & Health
Seongeup Folk Village
The Coast of Jungmun – Jusangjeollidea
Sanbangsan, the Cliff Sitting on Jeju’s Coast
The Coast of Seogwipo
Jeju Museum of War History Peace at Gama Oreum
A Documentary about Jeju Shamanism at the Jeju Women’s Film Festival
Jeju Stone Park
April 3rd Peace Park in Jeju
Udo Island: The Mini-Jeju
Sunrise at Castle Mountain Sunrise Peak
Jeju Olle Trail Route #1

The Southern Provinces with Relatively Mild Winters Where It Is Possible to Grow Tea, Bamboo, and Other Crops Which Don’t like Cold Winters, Yet Are Not Subtropical (i.e. Busan, Gyeongsangnam, and Jeollnam Provinces)

Busan: Books, Beach, and Basement Cinema
From Shimonoseki to Busan
Spaland in the World’s Biggest Department Store
Beomeosa: My First Buddhist Temple in South Korea
Geumjeong-seongsan: My First Fortress in South Korea
Seokbulsa: The Really Cool Temple I Visited with Polish Tourists
The UN Cemetary in Busan
Suncheon Bay
Nagan Castle Folk Village, Part 1: The Village which Charmed Me
Nagan Castle Folk Village, Part 2: An Open-Air Museum of Joseon-era Life
The May 18th National Cemetery in Gwangju
Festivities, Museums, and Art in Gwangju

The Western Provinces, which are warmer than the Eastern Provinces (i.e. Jeollabuk, Chungcheongnam, and Gyeoggi Provinces)

A Joseon-era Neighborhood in the City: Jeonju’s Hanok Maeul
Gyeonggijeon: The House of the Official Portrait of King Taejo
Temple by the Horse’s Ears, Temple of a Dedicated Stone-Piler
So-Muuido, My Last Full Day in South Korea
Bomun-sa, Seongmodo’s Temple of Having Sons
Guardian of the Han River: Ganghwa Island
Downtown Incheon
Busosanseong: Where the Baekje Kingdom Fell
Archaeological Ruins of Baekje in Buyeo
Learning about Baekje at the Buyeo National Museum
The Tomb of King Muryeong in Gongju: the Most Important Ancient Tomb in South Korea
The Treasures of King Muryeong at the Gongju National Museum
Gongsanseong: the Fortress in Gongju
Hwaseong Fortress: Haenggung, the Palace of King Jeongjo
Hwaseong Fortress: the High Point of the Wall at Paldalsan
Hwaseong Fortress: the West Gate, and the Really Big North Gate
Hwaseong Fortress: The North Floodgate and the Pretty Pavilion
Hwaseong Fortress: Archery and Beacons
Hwaseong Fortress: Completing the Circuit
Walking Along the Han River
Jongmyo, the Ancestral Shrine of the Joseon Kings
Gyeongbokgung, the Largest Palace in Seoul
Changgyeonggung, the Quiet Grand Palace, Part 1
Changgyeonggung, the Quiet Grand Palace, Part 2
Seoul’s Namsan and N Seoul Tower
Deoksugung: A Palace at Night
Bukchon Hanok Village
The Remains of the Original Ancient Baekje Capital ‘Hanseong’
Walking Around Gyeogbokgung
Namsangol: A Preserved Slice of Seoul’s Joseon Heritage
The Seoul Lantern Festival at Cheongyecheon
Changdeokgung, the Last Palace I Visited in South Korea, Part 1
Changdeokgung, the Last Palace I Visited in South Korea, Part 2: Trees
Changdeokgung, the Last Palace I Visited in South Korea, Part 3: Indoor Spaces
Changdeokgung, the Last Palace I Visited in South Korea, Part 4: Nakseonjae
Photos of a Mystery Place in Seoul
Huwon: The Secret Garden of Changdeokgung
The Joint Security Area at Panmunjeom Part 1: Where South Korea Talks with North Korea
The Joint Security Area at Panmunjeom Part 2: The Axe Murder and Bridge of No Return
Dorasan: The Train Station without Trains, and a Peek into North Korea
The Third Tunnel in the DMZ
Heyri: The Art Village near the DMZ

The Eastern Provinces, which are Colder than the Western Provinces (i.e. Gyeongsangbuk, Chungcheongbuk, and Gangwon Province)
Gyeongju: The City of Ancient Royal Tombs
Ancient Silla Heritage in Downtown Gyeongju
The ‘Folk Village’ and Hanoks of Gyeongju (plus economy and food)
Namsan: A Hike Through Ancient Silla
Namsan: Hermitage of the Seven Buddhas
Gyeongju: Bulguksa and the Most Impressive Buddha Statue I Have Ever Seen
A Final Visit to Namsan and Farewell Gyeongju!
The Andong Mask Dance Festival
Beauty and Tradition: Hahoe Folk Village
Hahoe Byeolsingut Talnori: A Traditional Masked Drama
Daegu, the Medical Metropolis
Haeinsa: House of the Triptaka Koreana
Cheongju: City of the Jikji
Chungju Lake
Coastal Folk Heritage at Haesindang
The North Korean Submarine at Jeongdongjin
Gangneung: a Joseon Villa, a Gramophone Museum, and a Tofu Village
Goseong, Sokcho, and Gangwon Province’s North Korea Connection
Beopjusa, Keeper of Ancient Buddhist Art
The Ancient Ruins of Mireuksa

In the Mountains, but Less than 1000 Meters Above Sea Level
A Final Morning in South Korea: Inwangsan
A Final Afternoon in South Korea: Bukaksan, the Northern Guardian of Seoul
Guinsa, the Sanctuary in Sobaeksan
Seoraksan National Park: The Scene at Biseondae
Seoraksan National Park: Biryeong Waterfall
Jirisan National Park: Buril Waterfall
Jirisan National Park: Ssangyesa, Temple of the Twin Streams
The Taebaek Coal Museum
Seoraksan National Park: Valley of the Waterfalls
Seoraksan National Park: Ulsan Bawi
Bukhansan, the Roof of Seoul
Woraksan

Subalpine to Alpine (i.e. the Roofs of South Korea)
Songnisan
Jirisan National Park: Seseok to Ssangyesa via Samsinbong
Jirisan National Park: To Seseok Shelter via Jeseokbong, Jangteomok Shelter, & Chotdaebong
Sobaeksan: The Peak
Jirisan National Park: Ascending Jungbong
Jirisan National Park: The Highest Peak Cheonhwangbong
Hallasan Part 1: Ascent via the Seongpanak Trail
Hallasan Part 2: Descent via the Gwaneum-sa Trail
Seoraksan National Park: The Highest Peak Daecheongbong
The Ancient Shrine on Taebaeksan

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SK in SK: A History of South Korea

I had read Everlasting Flower: A History of Korea before I ever went to East Asia, but my travels around South Korea definitely deepened and solidified my knowledge and understanding of Korean history. These are the S.K. in S.K. posts arranged in an order to serve as a chronological history of South Korea, going from prehistoric times to the present. I’d like to think that reading these posts, in this order, offers a decent introduction to South Korean history.

A Natural History
The Caverns of Hwanseongul
Hallasan Part 1: Ascent via the Seongpanak Trail
Hallasan Part 2: Descent via the Gwaneum-sa Trail
Manjanggul, the Lava Tube Cave, and Gimyeong Maze Park
Sunrise at Castle Mountain Sunrise Peak
The Caves of Sobaeksan

A Legendary Prehistory
Guardian of the Han River: Ganghwa Island
Seoraksan National Park: Ulsan Bawi
Jeju Stone Park
The Famous Waterfalls of Seogwipo & Jungmun
The Ancient Shrine on Taebaeksan

The Three Kingdoms
The Remains of the Original Ancient Baekje Capital ‘Hanseong’
Gyeongju: The City of Ancient Royal Tombs
The Tomb of King Muryeong in Gongju: the Most Important Ancient Tomb in South Korea
The Treasures of King Muryeong at the Gongju National Museum
Gongsanseong: the Fortress in Gongju
Ancient Silla Heritage in Downtown Gyeongju
Learning about Baekje at the Buyeo National Museum
Archaeological Ruins of Baekje in Buyeo
Busosanseong: Where the Baekje Kingdom Fell

United Silla
Gyeongju: Bulguksa and the Most Impressive Buddha Statue I Have Ever Seen
Namsan: A Hike Through Ancient Silla
Namsan: Hermitage of the Seven Buddhas
A Final Visit to Namsan and Farewell Gyeongju!
Woraksan

Goryeo Dynasty
The Ancient Ruins of Mireuksa
The National Museum of Korea
Cheongju: City of the Jikji

Early Joseon Dynasty (1392-1592)
Haeinsa: House of the Triptaka Koreana
Gyeonggijeon: The House of the Official Portrait of King Taejo
Jongmyo, the Ancestral Shrine of the Joseon Kings
Beauty and Tradition: Hahoe Folk Village
Hahoe Byeolsingut Talnori: A Traditional Masked Drama
Seolleung & Jeongneung, Two Royal Tombs of the Joseon Dynasty
Bongeun-sa
Gangneung: a Joseon Villa, a Gramophone Museum, and a Tofu Village

Middle Joseon Dynasty (1593-1723)
Changgyeonggung, the Quiet Grand Palace, Part 1
Changdeokgung, the Last Palace I Visited in South Korea, Part 1
Changdeokgung, the Last Palace I Visited in South Korea, Part 2: Trees
Changdeokgung, the Last Palace I Visited in South Korea, Part 3: Indoor Spaces
Beomeosa: My First Buddhist Temple in South Korea
Beopjusa, Keeper of Ancient Buddhist Art
Jirisan National Park: Buril Waterfall
Jirisan National Park: Ssangyesa, Temple of the Twin Streams
Daegu, the Medical Metropolis
Nagan Castle Folk Village, Part 1: The Village which Charmed Me
Nagan Castle Folk Village, Part 2: An Open-Air Museum of Joseon-era Life
Photos of a Mystery Place in Seoul
Huwon: The Secret Garden of Changdeokgung
Seongeup Folk Village
Bukhansan, the Roof of Seoul
Bukchon Hanok Village
Overnighting in a Hanok at Doo Guesthouse
Namsangol: A Preserved Slice of Seoul’s Joseon Heritage
A Final Morning in South Korea: Inwangsan
Geumjeong-seongsan: My First Fortress in South Korea

Late Joseon Dynasty (1724-1863)
Theatrical Performance in Seoul: Miso ‘Baebijang-jeon’
Changgyeonggung, the Quiet Grand Palace, Part 2
Hwaseong Fortress: Haenggung, the Palace of King Jeongjo
Hwaseong Fortress: the High Point of the Wall at Paldalsan
Hwaseong Fortress: the West Gate, and the Really Big North Gate
Hwaseong Fortress: The North Floodgate and the Pretty Pavilion
Hwaseong Fortress: Archery and Beacons
Hwaseong Fortress: Completing the Circuit
Coastal Folk Heritage at Haesindang
A Joseon-era Neighborhood in the City: Jeonju’s Hanok Maeul
Pansori Performance at Jeonju’s Sori Festival
Changdeokgung, the Last Palace I Visited in South Korea, Part 4: Nakseonjae

The Reign of King & Emperor Gojong (1863-1910)
Temple by the Horse’s Ears, Temple of a Dedicated Stone-Piler
Gyeongbokgung, the Largest Palace in Seoul
Ehwa Womans University
Deoksugung: A Palace at Night
Seoul Museum of History

Annexed by Japan (1910-1945)
From Shimonoseki to Busan
Downtown Incheon
A Final Morning in South Korea: Seodaemun Prison
Guinsa, the Sanctuary in Sobaeksan
Jeju Museum of War History Peace at Gama Oreum

Independence & June 25th War (a.k.a. the Korean War)
April 3rd Peace Park in Jeju
War Memorial & Museum of Korea, Part 1
War Memorial & Museum of Korea, Part 2
Goseong, Sokcho, and Gangwon Province’s North Korea Connection
The UN Cemetary in Busan
The Joint Security Area at Panmunjeom Part 1: Where South Korea Talks with North Korea
The Joint Security Area at Panmunjeom Part 2: The Axe Murder and Bridge of No Return

After the War (1953-1990)
Jogyesa: A Buddhist Temple in the Heart of Seoul
Jirisan National Park: To Seseok Shelter via Jeseokbong, Jangteomok Shelter, & Chotdaebong
Gamsan Village and the Museum of Sex & Health
A Final Afternoon in South Korea: Bukaksan, the Northern Guardian of Seoul
Seoul’s Namsan and N Seoul Tower
The ‘Folk Village’ and Hanoks of Gyeongju (plus economy and food)
The Third Tunnel in the DMZ
Chungju Lake
The Taebaek Coal Museum
The May 18th National Cemetery in Gwangju
Yeomiji Botanical Garden in Jungmun

The Internationalization of South Korea (1991-present)
The North Korean Submarine at Jeongdongjin
A Documentary about Jeju Shamanism at the Jeju Women’s Film Festival
Dragon Hill Spa, Part 1
Dragon Hill Spa, Part 2
Dongdaemun Plaza
Spaland in the World’s Biggest Department Store
Genius Loci: Japanese Architect Meets Jeju Island
Itaewon: The Neighborhood Where All of the Foreigners in Seoul Are
Heyri: The Art Village near the DMZ
The Seoul Lantern Festival at Cheongyecheon
Walking Along the Han River
The Leeum Samsung Museum of Art: The Last Art Gallery I Visited in South Korea (Part 1)
The Leeum Samsung Museum of Art: The Last Art Gallery I Visited in South Korea (Part 2)
Dorasan: The Train Station without Trains, and a Peek into North Korea
Jump: Another Super-Popular Nonverbal Show
The Andong Mask Dance Festival
Busan: Books, Beach, and Basement Cinema
Festivities, Museums, and Art in Gwangju

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SK in SK: Chronological Order

I did not publish posts in the same order that I visited the places I described. Here is a list of different places in South Korea, in the order that I visited them.

Busan
From Shimonoseki to Busan
Spaland in the World’s Biggest Department Store
Beomeosa: My First Buddhist Temple in South Korea
Geumjeong-seongsan: My First Fortress in South Korea
Seokbulsa: The Really Cool Temple I Visited with Polish Tourists

Gyeongju
Gyeongju: The City of Ancient Royal Tombs
Ancient Silla Heritage in Downtown Gyeongju
The ‘Folk Village’ and Hanoks of Gyeongju (plus economy and food)
Namsan: A Hike Through Ancient Silla
Namsan: Hermitage of the Seven Buddhas
Gyeongju: Bulguksa and the Most Impressive Buddha Statue I Have Ever Seen
A Final Visit to Namsan and Farewell Gyeongju!

Jeju Island
The Famous Waterfalls of Seogwipo & Jungmun
Gamsan Village and the Museum of Sex & Health
Seongeup Folk Village
The Coast of Jungmun – Jusangjeollidea
Sanbangsan, the Cliff Sitting on Jeju’s Coast
The Coast of Seogwipo
Yeomiji Botanical Garden in Jungmun
Manjanggul, the Lava Tube Cave, and Gimyeong Maze Park
Jeju Museum of War History Peace at Gama Oreum
Jeju Stone Park
April 3rd Peace Park in Jeju
Hallasan Part 1: Ascent via the Seongpanak Trail
Hallasan Part 2: Descent via the Gwaneum-sa Trail
A Documentary about Jeju Shamanism at the Jeju Women’s Film Festival
Udo Island: The Mini-Jeju
Genius Loci: Japanese Architect Meets Jeju Island
Sunrise at Castle Mountain Sunrise Peak
Jeju Olle Trail Route #1

Andong & Daegu & Haeinsa
The Andong Mask Dance Festival
Beauty and Tradition: Hahoe Folk Village
Hahoe Byeolsingut Talnori: A Traditional Masked Drama
Daegu, the Medical Metropolis
Haeinsa: House of the Triptaka Koreana

Gwangju & Jeollanam Province
Festivities, Museums, and Art in Gwangju
My Life in Gwangju
Nagan Castle Folk Village, Part 1: The Village which Charmed Me
Nagan Castle Folk Village, Part 2: An Open-Air Museum of Joseon-era Life
Suncheon Bay
The May 18th National Cemetery in Gwangju

Jeonju & Jeollabuk Province
A Joseon-era Neighborhood in the City: Jeonju’s Hanok Maeul
Gyeonggijeon: The House of the Official Portrait of King Taejo
Temple by the Horse’s Ears, Temple of a Dedicated Stone-Piler
Pansori Performance at Jeonju’s Sori Festival

Chungcheongbuk Province
Guinsa, the Sanctuary in Sobaeksan
Sobaeksan: The Peak
The Caves of Sobaeksan
Chungju Lake
Woraksan
The Ancient Ruins of Mireuksa
Beopjusa, Keeper of Ancient Buddhist Art
Songnisan
Cheongju: City of the Jikji

Gangwon Province
Seoraksan National Park: Ulsan Bawi
Seoraksan National Park: Biryeong Waterfall
Goseong, Sokcho, and Gangwon Province’s North Korea Connection
Gangneung: a Joseon Villa, a Gramophone Museum, and a Tofu Village
The North Korean Submarine at Jeongdongjin
The Caverns of Hwanseongul
Coastal Folk Heritage at Haesindang
The Ancient Shrine on Taebaeksan
The Taebaek Coal Museum
Seoraksan National Park: The Highest Peak Daecheongbong
Seoraksan National Park: Valley of the Waterfalls
Seoraksan National Park: The Scene at Biseondae

Return to Busan
Busan: Books, Beach, and Basement Cinema
The UN Cemetary in Busan
My Life in Busan: Hostel, Restaurant, and Dentist

Jirisan
Jirisan National Park: Ascending Jungbong
Jirisan National Park: The Highest Peak Cheonhwangbong
Jirisan National Park: To Seseok Shelter via Jeseokbong, Jangteomok Shelter, & Chotdaebong
Jirisan National Park: Seseok to Ssangyesa via Samsinbong
Jirisan National Park: Buril Waterfall
Jirisan National Park: Ssangyesa, Temple of the Twin Streams

Chungcheongnam Province
Busosanseong: Where the Baekje Kingdom Fell
Archaeological Ruins of Baekje in Buyeo
Learning about Baekje at the Buyeo National Museum
The Tomb of King Muryeong in Gongju: the Most Important Ancient Tomb in South Korea
The Treasures of King Muryeong at the Gongju National Museum
Gongsanseong: the Fortress in Gongju

Seoul, Incheon & Gyeoggi Province
Jongmyo, the Ancestral Shrine of the Joseon Kings
Gyeongbokgung, the Largest Palace in Seoul
Changgyeonggung, the Quiet Grand Palace, Part 1
Changgyeonggung, the Quiet Grand Palace, Part 2
Insadong: The Artsy Alleys and the Delicious Buffet
Seoul’s Namsan and N Seoul Tower
Deoksugung: A Palace at Night
Bukhansan, the Roof of Seoul
Overnighting in a Hanok at Doo Guesthouse
Bukchon Hanok Village
Dongdaemun Plaza
Itaewon: The Neighborhood Where All of the Foreigners in Seoul Are
The Joint Security Area at Panmunjeom Part 1: Where South Korea Talks with North Korea
The Joint Security Area at Panmunjeom Part 2: The Axe Murder and Bridge of No Return
Dorasan: The Train Station without Trains, and a Peek into North Korea
The Third Tunnel in the DMZ
War Memorial & Museum of Korea, Part 1
War Memorial & Museum of Korea, Part 2
The Remains of the Original Ancient Baekje Capital ‘Hanseong’
Heyri: The Art Village near the DMZ
Theatrical Performance in Seoul: Miso ‘Baebijang-jeon’
Walking Around Gyeogbokgung
Jogyesa: A Buddhist Temple in the Heart of Seoul
Namsangol: A Preserved Slice of Seoul’s Joseon Heritage
Downtown Incheon
Ehwa Womans University
The Seoul Lantern Festival at Cheongyecheon
Hwaseong Fortress: Haenggung, the Palace of King Jeongjo
Hwaseong Fortress: the High Point of the Wall at Paldalsan
Hwaseong Fortress: the West Gate, and the Really Big North Gate
Hwaseong Fortress: The North Floodgate and the Pretty Pavilion
Hwaseong Fortress: Archery and Beacons
Hwaseong Fortress: Completing the Circuit
The National Museum of Korea
Walking Along the Han River
Jump: Another Super-Popular Nonverbal Show
Bomun-sa, Seongmodo’s Temple of Having Sons
Guardian of the Han River: Ganghwa Island
Seolleung & Jeongneung, Two Royal Tombs of the Joseon Dynasty
Bongeun-sa
Dragon Hill Spa, Part 1
Dragon Hill Spa, Part 2
Changdeokgung, the Last Palace I Visited in South Korea, Part 1
Changdeokgung, the Last Palace I Visited in South Korea, Part 2: Trees
Changdeokgung, the Last Palace I Visited in South Korea, Part 3: Indoor Spaces
Changdeokgung, the Last Palace I Visited in South Korea, Part 4: Nakseonjae
Photos of a Mystery Place in Seoul
Huwon: The Secret Garden of Changdeokgung
The Leeum Samsung Museum of Art: The Last Art Gallery I Visited in South Korea (Part 1)
The Leeum Samsung Museum of Art: The Last Art Gallery I Visited in South Korea (Part 2)
So-Muuido, My Last Full Day in South Korea
A Final Morning in South Korea: Seodaemun Prison
A Final Morning in South Korea: Inwangsan
A Final Afternoon in South Korea: Bukaksan, the Northern Guardian of Seoul
A Final Afternoon in South Korea: The Meeting, the Guesthouse, the Airport

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